SPECIAL NOTES on PIPEWORK AND FITTINGS - in case you have not figured it out yet.

Pipework - Threaded Parts

STW uses mostly NPT fittings on the Lyka plumbing.  I am not sure about the other models, but my Lyka is over 95% NPT.   The small amount of BSP is on the commercial items that are from EUR and UK.  These always get adapted to NPT.  

STW has a habit of "Tapping too deep" on some of the manifolds, tanks, and other pieces, the tap goes way to deep, and you end up with pieces bottoming out.  One way around this is to layer some teflon thread in with the sealant as you assemble the pieces.   This does a great job of tightening everything up but still allows disassembly in the future.  

Pipework Part Numbers - If it has a part number like - LKxxxx, it is a custom part.  If it has a strange longer part number, it probably came from McMasterCarr.  Plug the part number in to their website and you will most likely find it.   

Same thing with most of the bearings. 

Flares: 

Here is the info I have discovered on the flares 

1. Non-standard flare adapters and nuts. STW makes all the flare adapters and nuts - so ALWAYS keep them as a "matched pair". The NPT side of the adapter is standard, the flare is not. If you need to reconfigure a piece of pipework, insert any changes but keep the two original ends intact. If you are building a new piece - steal a nut off the old if you are going to attach to something like a manifold with welded pieces, otherwise get a new PAIR and replace the adapter too. 

2. Flair ends - DOUBLE FLAIR. Standard flare kit with the double flare widgets (45 deg) work great. NOT BUBBLE FLARES. You need to end up with pretty cones. 

3. ANNEAL THE COPPER TUBE ENDS - really saves on the pain of flaring the hard copper. STW uses almost all 3/8" copper. Most of mine is "L" type - thicker wall. 

4. Get a GOOD tube bender - and make sure you put the nuts in place BEFORE you bend. I had a bunch of issues with getting the nuts over a tight bend.  

5. Get a set of NPT Pipe Taps and Dies. 1/8, 1/4, 3/8. 1/2. I can not count the number of times I needed to clean up the threads. 

 

Pipe Thread Sealant - 

A. I use a soft set (Rectorseal #5) on all the feed-water stuff because it is low pressure mostly. and you need to un-hook stuff if you are going to pull the tanks etc. 

B. I use the Steamseal with some teflon thread (looks like dental floss) on high pressure that might need to be serviced. Butter the pipe threads, add the teflon, add some more Steamseal to cover, screw it all down tight.  Great for when things are tapped wonky.  

C. I used X-Pando (real good stuff) on the pieces on the boiler and the main steam outlet. as it expands and locks it all real nicely.  But if you "break the seal" you will need to disassemble, clean, and reseal it. On the main steam outlet I suggest you get everything staged so you can swivel the pieces around as you build the stack of parts.  X-Pando takes a while (24 hrs) to harden so you have some working time - it is NOT like Loc-Tite.  Stick with Steamseal/Thread on the regulator attachment to the T as you will be servicing that.