What its all about

Poppapope's Steam Car

Idle Hands in the Devil's Workshop -

Too Much Time To Ponder

So I have been unable to proceed on the build due to a lack of kits.  STW tells me that the boilers are being held up by the certification process that has been in a state of flux.

It is my understanding that in January this process will smooth out and the boiler build will progress.

Since there is not much to do without the boiler, I have been putting together some of the "accessories" I think I might need.   Basically, I am fantasizing what different items I might want to add, without really knowing if they are going to be in the kits or not.  


Name Plate / Badge

When I look at a picture of the Lykamobile, which we all know is a replica of a Locomobile, I see that there is a marked resemblance to the vehicle shown in the advertisement below:


The center tiller steering is unique to this model.  The Model 2 and newer models have a side tiller steering.  While I do not have any actual documentation to back up my opinion, I am willing to bet that there was some type of patent argument over the mechanism and this resulted in the change of the steering mechanisms. 

This ad shows the address of the "works" for the Locomobile Company of America as being in Newton, Mass.  I know that they later moved to Bridgeport, Conn, and this is reflected in later advertisements.

When I did a search for name plates used by Locomobile,  I only found one that listed Newton as an address: 

So I contacted a manufacturer in India and arranged for them to make me some.  There was a minimum order so I have about 20 extra.  They are 3mm thick,  43mm x 73mm.  with 4 pre-drilled holes in corners.

If anyone would like one, email me using the contact form and I will get you the details.  

I am asking $30.00 each (incl. postage - USA)  (postage extra for rest of world). 


Water and Fuel Levels

Water and Fuel Levels are basically monitored manually.  There is one fuel tank under the floorboards.  In order to check the level you have to lift the floor covering and stick a stick into the tank to see how much gets wet. 

Water is stored in two Feed-Water Tanks.   They are mounted in the chassis on either side of the boiler. STW provides a site-tube along the side of one of the tanks that you can glance at in order to keep an eye on the feed tank level.   

The actual Boiler water level is monitored via a sight glass that is mounted on the side of the boiler,  this is visible if a mirror is mounted on the front of the body in such a way as to see the assembly while looking forward so you do not have to keep twisting your neck around and can keep your eyes forward. 

So the two items that merit a look at an upgrade are the feedwater and fuel tanks. 

The Fuel Gauge and Sender unit.

(Next to the Speedo)

I used a hole saw for the basic size, then placed some tape inside the hole to catch any swarf.

 

Tapping the individual mounting holes.

Mounting hole and screws ready.


Sender unit sealed with "RectorSeal 2" and mounted in place.














Looking Back - The Journey So Far

Time Out to Reflect - While waiting for kits to be shipped. 

In my communications with STW over the last months, I have come to appreciate the expertise in their organization.  Most of the issues I have had so far were of my own making.  Those that were not my fault have been addressed quickly and a solution found.   If you, the readers of this blog, have been to the website of Steam Traction World (STW), you will see that my series of kits is just one of many.  Most of the models are in current production, and I have heard that over 200 builders are currently being served. 

This is a lot of stuff to keep track of, and STW seems to be doing it well.  

Tools in my workshop.

I have been asked "What tools do I use/ are needed/ come in handy in order to build this vehicle."  I went into my workshop this morning and sorted thru the tools I have used so far in the build/assembly process. 

So here are the things in my "toolbox" in no particular order: 

 
 Four Jackstands - each on a dolly.  Obvious purpose. 
Now waiting until I need to work on a wheel or when the engine is ready to test. 

Scissor Lift - for "transmissions" but used as a jack instead of a Floor Jack due to space considerations. Also serves as a stool (with padding).  Came in real handy when assembling the differential, supporting the lower half in place.  (Harbor Freight) 

Pliers - Various Types 

Screwdrivers - 1 of each type/size.

Hex (Allen) Wrenches - Ball End on the long stem - both Metric and SAE

A "No-Mar" Hammer for those sensitive alignments.

A set of metric taps and dies.

Adjustable End-Wrenches 

Metric "Open-End" Wrenches

Both SAE and Metric Socket Sets 

Files - Large and Small

Bench and Power Tools Used

Here are the "workbench tools" I have used: 

One-Inch Belt Sander with a variety of belts.  

Medium Sized Bench Vise - (Soft Jaws not shown) 

Bench Grinder - Buffing Wheel

Favorite Hand Power Tool

Speaks for itself, I have used a variety of disc types. 


Consumables

These are the supply items I have found useful/necessary. 

Naphtha - excellent de-greaser, cleaner and prep for painting. 
 
Ultra Slick - keeps everything sliding until you actually run the engine.  Loctite 243(blue) and 262(red).
RectorSeal 5 - Pipe Thread Sealant - for water, oil, brakes, etc.  SteamSeal - For all the Engine Surfaces and Steam Ports.

This stuff is amazing - or it may be "too good to be true" -  Excellent gloss coverage, after 48 hours - seems very tough.  We will see how it holds up. 


A variety of Emory Paper - From 80-400 grit.  

Tap Magic - a necessity for drilling, tapping, cleaning out tapped holes, and avoiding the seize-up you can get when first fitting things.  Cleans off well with Naphtha,  it is NOT anti-sieze, just makes metal cutting, drilling and tapping easier. 
 
 
 
Last but not least - 
A computer - mounted on the wall out of the way so I can look things up or study one of the other builder's blogs.


So that's what is in my workshop from the tool perspective.   I also used a variety of clamps and weights during assembly of the parking brake, and of course - tunes.    


Thanks for reading, 
More to come. 


Poppapope
Denver, CO USA


The Engine - 3b

Kit 13 - The Rest -  Valve Linkage, Preliminary Timing

Came to the conclusion today that getting a bunch of kits at one time has both advantages and disadvantages.  Most notable is that you can cruise full steam ahead (pun intended) and then all of a sudden find yourself without much to do.  

When I talk with my fellow builders, I get the impression that they are all standing there, nodding their heads, saying "Yup - You thought this would last forever - didn't ya?"  I have adjusted my expectations to perhaps a more realistic perspective where at some point I will be surprised by an email from STW letting me know that another shipment is ready, but in the meantime it is a good idea to clean out the closets, prepare the workshop for the coming winter, sort the screws, and clean out the garage so I do not trip over half empty boxes of stuff I forgot I bought.  

So I took some time before diving into my last kit.  The third part of the engine.  This contains the reversing linkages, the slide valve parts, and the steam chests. 


The first thing to do was to lay out all the parts,  pick those that needed paint, and get familiar with the part numbers. 

I decided on continuing the BRG for the main linkage and Blue for the Reversing Links.  Mostly for the desire to make it easier to see when in motion and to avoid cutting off any appendages.  I could have gone for a Yellow or Red, but that would not match my overall color scheme.  I am using a Dupli-Color Engine Enamel that contains something they call "Ceramic". It seems to stand up well to handling if you let it set up for about 48 hours.   Very quick build-up. and a pretty smooth finish.  

The ends of the shafts on the Crank Webs (counter weights) are square to fit into two short arms that provide all the motion for the slide valves.  There are two additional clamping screws as well as a retaining washer on each.  The square ends are a new modification from earlier production runs. Previously the end was round and keyed, and wear could cause some slop to be introduced.   The square ends were a VERY tight fit to the arm.  

The shaft on the other end was machined as opposed to assembled, so the overall part came from one piece of steel. 

The washer and clamping screws make sure that this is not going anywhere! 

That was the first side of the crank.  Then I got in a hurry and did not pay attention.  Too much paint fumes or something.   -   

What is wrong with this picture?

Was a good thing that no grand kids were around!  Poppa would have been in trouble with Nana and the rest of the clan.   As it was, the puppies all ran into the house.  It took a solid 1/2 hour to figure out the proper method to apply pressure and pop the darn thing off.    I used an adjustable end wrench that had long enough jaws to give me something to pry and wiggle with.  A block of wood behind gave me the point to apply the leverage and also helped to protect the paint.  

I do not want to have to do that again.  But - little damage to the finish, and none to the structure.

After getting that back on correctly, it was time to organize the other arms in the linkage. 

Fitting the bearings to the middle arms took a little effort, I used some washers to protect the center portion and just apply pressure to the outer case. 

The bearings had to be seated deep enough for a retaining "C" clip to be added.  

All the arms had bushings to be added.


And the lower linkage arms are connected with "Shoulder Bolts" with lock nuts.




Steam Chests and Slide Valves

The Steam Chests needed a minimal amount of cleanup.  Just needed to de-grease and make sure the Slide Valve would fit inside without any binding.  I painted the outside of the chests (sides and top) the same BRG and was sure to keep the faces clean so the heat would not effect the seals in the future. 

First of all, I used a tap to cleanup and chase the pre-tapped holes for the studs.

 

After the paint set up, I added the Steam Inlets, Valve Rod Glands and Exhaust Ports to the Steam Chests. I used Steam Seal on the fittings and the "backside" of the Chests to get a good seal now, and make sure everything was in a final "tight" condition to make the next set of connections easier.  






The next thing was to attach the covers and get setup to align the valve guide for the slide valve linkages. 

I added the valve stem to the mix and with the valve guide very loose, screwed the stems onto the valve rods. 


 

Things did not line up very well.  Just making things a little tighter caused it all to lock up.  So the first thing was to shift one of the cylinders until the valve rod aligned with the hole in the stem. 

It took a variety of washers to shift the cylinder into position.  I can tell that this will be something that will need some attention.  For now, there are lock washers, soon to be thread-locked, although the heat may be a factor.


Now that the Guides and Rods were aligned in one direction, everything slipped up and down very easily. 

BUT, if the Guide was tightened up against the center support tube - it all went tight and nothing moved.  So out came the supply of shims.  In this case - a coke can.  It took 1 can slice on the right, and 2 slices on the left to make it so I could tighten everything up without the stems biding up.  They both traveled easily - so easily that a "single finger" could "flip" them up and down.  



The last step was to add the Valve Rod (yeah, STW named two parts the same) between the Stem and the linkage assembly down below.  But first I needed to fix the alignment of the thru and threaded holes so the shoulder bolts will assemble correctly. 




And the last parts in place: 


A view "down" the linkages - you can see how close it all runs.  No room for any "slop".


The one bolt without a lock-nut on the "Lower Valve Rod" got a good dose of Blue Thread-Locker.  As did all the lock nuts in fact. 


I did a quick setup of the timing - just to get the nuts in a general position.  TDC and BDC for each piston with the linkage in a "neutral" position (Thanks Grier) - and averaged the position to just show the edge of the opening in the steam chest. 



Finally - added the exhaust pipes to the Steam Chest outlets, and it all sits nice a pretty - ready to go into the chassis.   






Since I have her on a stand, safe sitting on the bench, I will wait to put her in the chassis until the boiler and additional kits show up.  I am thinking that it might be easier to maneuver around with the engine out. 

So - That is all I have for now on the build.  I have some additional things to do, but the next big posts will come in a month or so - after the boiler gets here. 

One last look.    I think she is quite a nice looker - don't you?



Thanks for reading - Check back here later - probably in October - I hope. 


Regards,

PoppaPope
Denver, CO USA