Kit 18 - The Wiring Loom (Harness) - Dashboard and Controls

The Stock Wire Loom (Harness) - 

First - let's talk about the way the Lyka works from the perspective of "How does the burner work?"  The heat source for the boiler is a Riello 40 Model G10 furnace burner.  It has a rated output of 55-120 KW - which translates to 187000 BTU/hr up to 409000 BTU/hr. The burner runs on 220V (gotta love the UK and EU) this is sourced by an inverter that takes the dual 12V batteries and provides the 220. The inverter is turned on and off as heat is required, thus firing the burner in turn.  

The fuel source is Diesel (Light Oil).  The fuel "circuit" includes a tank, filter, and pump internal to the burner unit.  There is no "pilot light".  It is electronic start and burner status is sensed with some type of photocell.  There is a squirrel cage fan built in to force the heat into the shield area under the boiler. It is deflected upwards, thru the multiple fire tubes, and out the "chimney" in the rear deck of the Lyka. 

After I get the actual burner unit, I will do some open-air test firing to see how far the flame goes. 

The stock electronic package is comprised of a small box with 4 fused circuits and two switches on the outside.  Internally there are two relays.  One relay is the Main circuit, the other is the ACC/Lamp circuit.  The "main" switch turns on the Main Relay and enables the ACC Switch to turn on the ACC Relay. 

The Main Relay controls voltage to the burner.  The control circuit has two additional points of interruption,  The water level system and the over-pressure switch.  Either of these will interrupt the power to the relay and hence to the burner.  

SO - if you have a cold boiler, with water in it, and you turn on the main switch, the burner will run until you run out of water (1/2 way) or reach max pressure.   

If you turn on the main switch and then turn on the ACC switch - you get power to the Lights. 

All in all a fairly automatic system.  Just keep adding fuel and water.  

Water Level Sensor (more details later)

 

My Modifications

My requirements for mods were defined in a previous post, but I will review them a little here. 

1. Manual Cut-off of boiler.

2. Water and Fuel Level Display

3. Manual control of light circuits.

4. "Key Ignition" switch. 

5. Speedo and Odometer. 

6. LED Indicators of Burner Enable / Burner Active / Lamps

7. Brake Lights (Always available if Main is on). 

Constraints: 

1. System must minimally change the provided control box. 

2. All "Loads" should run thru a relay. 

3. Switches just control relays, relays control loads. 

4. Tanks must be removable. 

5. Wiring should be neat and labeled. 

6. Grounds will be home-run as chassis is powder coated. 

7. Additional circuits should be in weather-resistant boxes. 

8. Dash system should be removable. 

9. There should be "beak-points" for test access and system bypass. 

The first step was to pre-wire the chassis.  Identify the cable runs, deternine the access to the final locations,  group the cables passing thru each major point,  pull and protect,  dress and terminate, and finally label. 

I established a central access point for connection and test as well as bypass.  I put a set of barrier strips on the inside of the chassis, on the opposite side from the pressure valve, sight glass connection and general future piping.  At this location all loads and control circuits are accessible and can be bypassed if needed. 

 

So I can completely remove my mods and the Lyka will still roll merrily along. 

The connections to the Lyka lights, brakes, and power busses are on the right side.  Connections to the control circuitry are on the left. 

 

 

 The stock control box now has a bit more cable traffic, but only two new connections inside, 

one for the ACC power buss, and one for the burner override connection. 

(The Yellow cable is the battery charger input point - A cigarette lighter socket)

The Remote Connection / Relay Box

Next I assembled the box I wanted for remote connections.  I wanted a central location for the umbilical to the dashboard, and also individual relays for the Headlamp/Tail Lamp circuit and the Side Lamps. In my design I basically have what I call a Low-Amp and a Hi-Amp circuit.  The Stock controller box has three circuits inside it.  A Low-Amp, controlled by the Main Power switch - this enables the power to the burner relay, Hi-Amp to the burner and it also feeds the ACC Switch.  The ACC switch controls a relay which provides Hi-Amp to the lights. 

So Switches are Low-Amp to Relays,  Relays control Hi-Amp to Loads/Burner. 

In keeping with that concept, I wanted the dash system to run Low-Amp to Relays in the Remote Box and the relays to enable the ACC Main Hi-Amp power to go to the various lamps.  This is because all of my lamps are converted to electric, but might use a variety of bulbs.  Since I wanted to use some "vintage" switches for lamps on the dash, I wanted only Low-Amp circuits to go thru them.  

First the box - 

Then a circuit for each load with relays, LEDs and connection points. 

Then fitting it in the box along with a junction strip.  The junction strip contains the color-coded multi-conductor cable that is the umbilical to the dash system. 

 

 

 I was working upside down because the other end of the cables were already attached to the car. 

I decided to mount the box to a plate that was suspended from the main cross bar of the chassis/body. This will keep the box safer in the future when things get crowded in there.  I mounted it as far away from the engine cylinders as possible. 

The Dashboard

Design criteria - 

1. Needed to be smaller than the front panel of the Lyka. 

2. Needed to be able to be removed and replaced easily. 

3. 1 connector umbilical.

4. Fit into the general color scheme of Black and Brass. 

5. Contain the controls previously determined. 

6. Build from available pieces and parts. 

7. Be angled for viewing - like the Clock.  

8. Look cool.

So - Starting with the board itself - needed to determine an optimal size.  I also needed to source a piece f quality plywood.  I chose a good clear Birch Veneer plywood as I liked that it had tight glue layers as seen from the side and two clear sides, no knots or patches. 

Then I found two pieces of 1"x 1/4"aluminum bar to cut the brackets from. 

I decided to round the corners so the brass banding I am locating will be easier to install after the finish is done.

In keeping with my new wood finishing process, I coated the dash with the ESP-155 Epoxy.(see Seat Log)

After giving it a few days to cure, I sanded it down and used Rustoleum Gloss Black Automotive Paint. 

(I think I need to perfect my sanding technique - but it looks pretty good.)

Control System

The control box will be mounted on the dash.  I made it from some available scraps of brass.  I used JB-Weld in stead of actually soldering as I thought that having to solder multiple seams and keeping things from warping/melting might be a PIA. 

I decided on a layout - the Mickey Ears one.  I am putting the ignition and cutoff switch on one side and the lighting switches on the other.  I had to play for awhile to get the viewing angle to match the clock I had, and then came up with a way to secure the shell to the base, and still be removable.  I attached some "L"Brackets made from brass angle to the base and then drilled and tapped holes for socket screws.  

Unfortunately, the piece I have for the front panel is in the roughest shape.  Some previous holes that were soldered closed and scratches.  It did have the nicest corners and allowed for the box assembly to go quite smoothly. 

The end result:

And in place: 

Well, 

That's about it until I get another shipment.  I may have to go back to playing with boats and miniature steam in order to keep my fingers from itching.  

 

One last picture -  The brass banding came in, I added counter-sunk holes for brass wood screws.  Here it is in place: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading,

Poppapope

Denver, CO

USA

Building the Seat - Kit 24

A Little Out of Sequence - 

STW sent me a shipment with some partial kits to give me something to do.  Kit 18 - the "Wire Loom" which also had the Regulator - (Steam Throttle) and Sight Glass.  They also sent me Kit 24 and 24A, the seat and upholstery.   I will deal with the Kit18 in the next post.  

 

Here is the "Saga of the Seat". 

The shipment came in multiple parts, which Fedex promptly sent to three different hubs and it took a week to get everything straightened out and delivered.  At least everything was there and un-damaged.  I will say that Helen at STW does a GREAT job of packing.  

However, the documentation is starting to indicate a trend.   STW is updating the kits and production methods, but does not update the actual ISO's and Instructions/pictures.  Case in point, the base for the seat used to be a wooden mortise and tenon joint that you would fit and disassemble, then finally glue into place.  This is shown in the drawings and pictures but in real life is a different type of construction joint. 

Two plastic parts that slide into pre-cut slots in the wood.  Then you just "pop" the two together. 

All is great - new technology -  JUST DO NOT TRY TO PULL IT APART !!!

I happen to have figured this out BEFORE I snapped the pieces together.  So some liberal application of TitebondIII and "pop" - tight as a drum.

Next - Spindles

The Spindles came nicely pre-cut and sanded.  The only real fitting was to do a little sanding on the ends to fit into the pre-drilled holes on the base and the arms. 

'BOX-O-SPINDLES"

A Moment to Digress - 

Painting -  Finishing -  What product, What technique?  

I do a fairly decent job of applying a finish.  Sand, Prime, Paint.  Try not to drip, sand and paint again, be patient,  let it cure before you mess with it,  do not mix products without testing. 

I decided to do a slightly different approach on the body panels and wooden pieces/parts.  I thought that a good place to try things out would be the seat.   In the past, the one thing I have run into on putting a solid color on wood, is that the grain always seems to show up.  I had been using a "sanding sealer" prior to priming, and yet the grain shows thru - not a lot but enough to bother me.  

I banged around on the inter-web and discivered a company back east called "Progressive Epoxy Polymers"  They have a kinda convoluted website, but in total had quite a lot of information available. (www.epoxyproducts.com)   I called them, the owner and chief chemist answered the phone, and we discussed my application -  Sealing, priming, smoothing and strengthening flat plywood body panels prior to finishing with some type of automotive paint system.  

The product is called - ESP155.  It is a two part - 50-50 mix.  has a working time of a hour or so, at least at Denver temp and humidity it did.   I used it first on the spindles and seat/arms.  I will really test it out on the dashboard I plan to build (next post). 

Things I learned - 

1.  Patience - put it down and walk away for a couple of days.  Depending on temp and humidity it can take a while to get all the solvents to evaporate.  Do not rush it.  

2. Once you think the epoxy is cured, if you paint it with an enamel that has a lot of solvents, like automotive enamel, the solvents in the paint will soften the epoxy a little - DO NOT WORRY,  just walk away again.  Because the bonding between the epoxy and paint is a good thing.  Just go read a book. 

3. Once the drying is moving along, you can put the piece in the sun to really cook it. Just be careful that it is not so thin it warps.

For the seat, I did not worry too much about sanding the pieces into oblivion,  just took care of drips.  Then I shot first a Gloss Black, and then detailed in Hunter Green, followed by a gloss coat on the spindles.  

For the seat and arms I just shot Glass Black.  

 

First - Epoxy

Then Spindles:

 Color Details: 

And a shot of Gloss:

And after a game of "Wack-A-Mole" - 

All the spindles are in the holes and everything is snugged up.

The metal part of the backrest is at the powder coater, and the cushions are in storage for the moment.  I see no reason to weigh things down until the body panels show up.

And there she is - sitting on the frame for now. 

I got the upholstery out of storage.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading - more to come. 

Poppapope

Denver, CO