SPECIAL NOTES on PIPEWORK AND FITTINGS - in case you have not figured it out yet.

Pipework - Threaded Parts

STW uses mostly NPT fittings on the Lyka plumbing.  I am not sure about the other models, but my Lyka is over 95% NPT.   The small amount of BSP is on the commercial items that are from EUR and UK.  These always get adapted to NPT.  

STW has a habit of "Tapping too deep" on some of the manifolds, tanks, and other pieces, the tap goes way to deep, and you end up with pieces bottoming out.  One way around this is to layer some teflon thread in with the sealant as you assemble the pieces.   This does a great job of tightening everything up but still allows disassembly in the future.  

Pipework Part Numbers - If it has a part number like - LKxxxx, it is a custom part.  If it has a strange longer part number, it probably came from McMasterCarr.  Plug the part number in to their website and you will most likely find it.   

Same thing with most of the bearings. 

Flares: 

Here is the info I have discovered on the flares 

1. Non-standard flare adapters and nuts. STW makes all the flare adapters and nuts - so ALWAYS keep them as a "matched pair". The NPT side of the adapter is standard, the flare is not. If you need to reconfigure a piece of pipework, insert any changes but keep the two original ends intact. If you are building a new piece - steal a nut off the old if you are going to attach to something like a manifold with welded pieces, otherwise get a new PAIR and replace the adapter too. 

2. Flair ends - DOUBLE FLAIR. Standard flare kit with the double flare widgets (45 deg) work great. NOT BUBBLE FLARES. You need to end up with pretty cones. 

3. ANNEAL THE COPPER TUBE ENDS - really saves on the pain of flaring the hard copper. STW uses almost all 3/8" copper. Most of mine is "L" type - thicker wall. 

4. Get a GOOD tube bender - and make sure you put the nuts in place BEFORE you bend. I had a bunch of issues with getting the nuts over a tight bend.  

5. Get a set of NPT Pipe Taps and Dies. 1/8, 1/4, 3/8. 1/2. I can not count the number of times I needed to clean up the threads. 

 

Pipe Thread Sealant - 

A. I use a soft set (Rectorseal #5) on all the feed-water stuff because it is low pressure mostly. and you need to un-hook stuff if you are going to pull the tanks etc. 

B. I use the Steamseal with some teflon thread (looks like dental floss) on high pressure that might need to be serviced. Butter the pipe threads, add the teflon, add some more Steamseal to cover, screw it all down tight.  Great for when things are tapped wonky.  

C. I used X-Pando (real good stuff) on the pieces on the boiler and the main steam outlet. as it expands and locks it all real nicely.  But if you "break the seal" you will need to disassemble, clean, and reseal it. On the main steam outlet I suggest you get everything staged so you can swivel the pieces around as you build the stack of parts.  X-Pando takes a while (24 hrs) to harden so you have some working time - it is NOT like Loc-Tite.  Stick with Steamseal/Thread on the regulator attachment to the T as you will be servicing that. 

 

 

 

After 20 Miles - Things to take care of . . .

 Summer Visitations 

Every summer my daughter packs up her kids and comes to visit for a couple of weeks.  This usually occurs during the time her husband needs to spend extended time abroad for his job.   We plan events and things to do as we catch up on the all the things teenagers do these days.  

I wanted to wait until I could take my grand kids (and adults) for rides before I stripped her down to gain access to items that need attention. 

After a couple of weeks and 10 miles of trips around the neighborhood, I compiled a list of tasks to complete before I will feel comfortable taking a longer trip.  

1. Try and get to the crank webs again.   After a consultation with Grier, I am going to try and disconnect the crosshead in order to expose the crank and shaft key-ways.

2. Wrap the boiler and heat-shield.   I am getting some overheating of my electronics, and suspect that the heat shield is the culprit.   In addition, I can see some soot on the side near a pipe elbow for the blow off.  In order to gain access, I will have to remove the seat and top body panels.

3. Take apart and re-assemble the Steam Regulator - which acts as the throttle.  I am getting squirts and constant drips from the current assembly.   

4.  Try and eliminate the accumulation of soot.  This needs adjustments to the Reillo burner.   I need to find a local expert. 

 

Fixes 

1. Crank Webs:

The issue with the webs goes back to my first runs under live steam.   I covered it in posts then, but I will summarize here.   

I forgot to use the high-temp/strength thread lock.  I assembled the lower end of the engine without it to test fit and alignments, but forgot to go back and seal things up afterwards.   This meant that bolts worked themselves loose, and a few were lost on the road during my initial outings.  As a result the bearing housing on one side worked loose and the large flathead, countersunk bolt in the center that holds the web to the end of the shaft also worked loose.   I could move the web back and forth and grew concerned that I may have FUBARed the keyways and/or keys in the process.  

My first real inspection and understanding of the mess with the webs and crankshaft. 

(Please excuse some of the descriptive comments) 

I attempted a couple of times to get at the bolt.  This required a disassembly of the reverseing gear linkages in order to get down to the big end of the rod.   It was there I hit a snag in that I could not get the bearing past the end of the crank pin.  In order to do that I will have to disconnect the crosshead from the small end.   Easier said than done.   I was unable to get the large bearing pin out of the crosshead from below.  There were two set screws and these came out but the large pin would not budge.  

So - I pulled the big end as far over as I could and unscrewed the center bolt - I got about three full turns before it ran into the backside if the big end.  

The linkage before disassembly.

Linkage bolts removed - Managed to do all this without messing up the timing on the slide valves.

 

Big end still on the web pin. 

                                          Center crank bolt backed out as far as possible. 

I washed everything with brake cleaner to remove grease.   Then I used GREEN LocTite (the wicking type) to flood the bolt, web-to-shaft key location, and as many threads as it would do.   Following this I torqued the bolt back into the web using a large hex key and finished by banging on the handle of the key with a hammer (got another 1/8 inch rotation) to tighten it back up.   

During re-assembly  I took care of another impingement.  The small flathead on the cover that protects the connection of the linkage to the crank pin - well it sticks out about 1/16 inch, and this was enough to scrape the backside of one of the links.  (see previous post). To deal with that, I used a countersink to deepen the hole on the cover and the web pin.  Then I replaced the original bolt wit a new shiny Stainless one.   

                           The original bolt head - just sticks out a little. (The little one to the right.)

Now it's nice and flush.  

I will keep an eye on the witness marks to check for any signs of movement in the center bolt.  If this fails the next step is to pull the engine and totally disassemble the lower end.   In the meantime, I have ordered and received a new crank assembly (webs, shaft, all keys) from STW.   Cost me, but now at least I have spares in hand.  

 

2. Wrapping the Boiler, Flame Shield, and reducing any leaks from the burner. 

While I was steaming up I looked down along the side of the boiler on the right side and saw some smoke and a flicker of flame.  Not Good.   I crawled under the Lyka and saw that the cavity in the rear above the flame shield was just coated in soot.   Not Good either.   

So while the production of soot is a problem in itself, the fact that there are "leaks" is something to be dealt with immediately.   

Here is the evidence: 

 Removing the seat and top panels gives a more complete picture:

Right side of the boiler - the water tank still installed. 

Left side with water tank. 

Right side again with water tank out of the way.

And - a view from below - the right side - obvious blast marks. 

 

 Inside the rear cavity - a nice coating of yuck.

 

Outlet for Gauge and Switch showing some smoke. 

 

Below on the left side - smoke on the fuel line - good thing I wrapped it.

 

 

 With the tanks out of the way, I fired her up and checked things out. 

 

Fixing the fire issue took a couple of steps and products.   First I found some fireplace goop good to over 2700 F.  After wiping everything down, I crawled under the flame shield and "caulked" the boiler-to-flame shield junction.  Then I repacked the open gaps with ceramic wool.   Finally I took some rigid muffler aluminum backed insulation and fashioned a number of shields.   These were held on by a series of stainless bands.  

 

So it is my hope that the added shielding will also reduce the amount of ambient heat in the cavity around the engine.  I have two electronic "packages" that hold circuits for Burner Control and also Lights and accessories.  The Burner Control is on one side and the Light Control is on the other.   The Light unit is having some issues where the relays are heating up and not actuating.  If you "thump" the box they close, but randomly open (like when you hit a bump).   

 

I chose two things to do to try and correct the issues with the Light Control.  First was to lower it spatially in the engine compartment, hoping that since heat rises, it would not be all the way at the top.  Then I found some "Cool Tape" which is supposed to reflect the heat away from electronic packages.   

 

Finally I began to wrap the steam pipework in ceramic insulation wrap that is held in place with stainless steel bands.   I left the junction points free for now until I can steam her up again to check for leaks.  

 

 

Moved the mounting holes down about 6 inches.  

 

Applying the tape.  Has a fiberglass substrate to add insulation quality. 

 

The box back in place.  Some of the wires are looping lower, but should not be an issue. 

 

Starting to wrap the steam supply lines.  

Added some wrap around my electronic feedwater bypass valve to reduce ambient heat. 

Steam Regulator (throttle)  

The Regulator leaks.   I get spits from some places and spurts from others. The Boiler Sensor electronics package is getting wet and if the engine panel is off the driver and passenger get damp legs.  Not too hot but aggravating. 

Here is a test run (on blocks) looking for leaks.  At the beginning you can see some steam around the regulator and also some water running down the side of the water tank.   The primary leak points were the seam between the two parts and the linkage for the push rod that goes into the regulator to lift the ball for the steam release. 

 

Here you can see the slight discoloration from the leak around the linkage. 

So I disassembled the units and pulled the parts out.  This part is known as the "Stuffing Plate" it has a cup on one end that holds a small seal.  Mine was missing - yet I know I put it in there.  plus I feel that the whole thing would leak like a sieve without it.  But anyway - it is gone!    

 

The replacement for the missing seal.   I added some adhesive to the wall of the stuffing plate, hopefully it will stay in place.

The parts all laid out for cleaning and inspection.

 I carefully coated the stuffing plate on the outside where it is inserted into the body of the regulator.  When you look down the barrel, you can see a bead around the end of the plate.  Hoping for a good seal. 

Now a look at the two parts of the body.  This is where I had a near-constant drip and slight spraw when under pressure.  There is a cavity at the end of the threaded section - it is just crying for an o-ring of some type.   Did STW forget? Was this a deleted part? Was it just a fluke of machining?    Curious minds want to know.  

So I went on a search for a high temperature o-ring of the correct size.   Bought a few to try - hoping for one that fits.  

 

FKM O-rings are rated to 600F - we will see. 

 

Looks good to me! 

 

I used X-Pando - Filled the threads, mated the two sides, put it in a vice and torqued the hell out of it. 

Then I put it back in the Lyka.  I used Steamseal and Teflon Thread on the pipe joint into the T.  Realigned the mounting holes and connected the linkage back up.   You can see a slight gap in the two parts - 

Will it leak?   Stand by for a bit while the goop seals up and travels are completed.  Back for a video in a week or so. 

 

 

 4. Soot 

During this maintenance, we have seen the accumulation of soot in the body cavity and elsewhere.  This is an indication of inadequate combustion.  If allowed to continue, the soot would clog up the fire tubes and make a big mess.   Best to deal with it now.  

I have reached out to a local boiler company, and the owner was intrigued by my Lyka.   (Who wouldn't be?)    We have made a tentative appointment for "playtime with steam" in the first month of September. 

Stand by for details in a future episode. 

 

Thanks for reading, 

Jim (poppa) Pope

Denver, CO USA